But Not the Hippopotamus

Just finished yet another project out of the book Baby Blueprint Crochet by Robyn Chachula. Can't say enough good things about that book. This one is called Callum Pullover. I called it Little h's Hippo Sweater. It fits ok, but I probably should have made the next size up. Eugh. Well, I'm sure I'll make another soon. Cold weather is coming... I hope. You can also find this in my Ravelry projects.

So, here it is!

Don't mind the weird face...

La Hippo!

THE cutest hippo buttons. Ever.

Snaps. Who wants to struggle a baby into a piece of clothing and then mess around with buttons??? Not. Me.

Ta-Da!

Little h Ear Flap Hat- The Pattern!

Little h Ear Flap Hat

Perfect for all little ones! It's warm enough to wear out for errands and cute enough to wear anywhere. Sew on my flower applique or any one you like. It also looks great just by itself. The dino applique pictured is a pattern from Robyn Chachula from the book, Baby Blueprint Crochet. The large rosette is by Lion Brand and can be found here for free. More photos of this hat can be found in my earlier post, Hats.

Size 18 months

Made with Lion Brand Homespun yarn, in size 18 months, but it is a bit larger. I'd say 24 months.

Size 3 months.

Size NB with sizes (3mos, 6mos, 12mos, and 18mos) in parenthesis.

Vanna's Choice yarn in 2 to 4 colors

Hook size I/9

Yarn Needle

Straight pins

Sts Used:

Adjustable Ring

ch

sc
sc decrease 

dc

dc decrease

IEN: in each of next

HAT

Work in the round. Do not turn.

With MC, make an adjustable ring, ch 2 (does not count as first st, here and throughout).

Round 1: (Right Side) 11 dc in ring, pull tight; join with sl st to first dc. (11 sts)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around; join with sl st to first dc (22 sts)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next- repeat around; join with sl st to first dc. (33 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 2 dc- repeat around; join with sl st to first dc. (44 sts)

Round 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 3 dc- repeat around; join with sl st to first dc. (55 sts)

Size (3mos, 6mos, 12mos, and 18mos only) continue; for NB, skip to round 6. (55 sts)

Size 3mos only:

Round 5.5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 12 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc IEN 13 dc, repeat from * around; join with sl st to first dc. (59 sts)

Size 6mos only:

Round 5.5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 9 dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc IEN 8 dc, repeat from * around; join with sl st to first dc. (61 sts) Continue to Round 6.

Size (12mos, and 18mos) only:

Round 5.5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 4 dc- repeat around; join with sl st to first dc. (66 sts)

Size 18mos only:

Round 5.75: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc IEN 15 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc IEN 16 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc IEN 15 dc, 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc IEN 16 dc; join with sl st to first dc. (70 sts)

Round 6-9(10, 10, 11, 11): Ch 2, 1 dc IEN around; join with sl st to first dc. (55, 59, 61, 66, 70 sts)

Last round: Ch 2, 1 dc IEN around; join with sl st to first dc, fasten off. (55, 59, 61, 66, 70 sts)

RIGHT EAR FLAP

Work in rows.

Join MC with sl st to 8^th (9^th, 9^th, 10^th, 10^th) st to the left of where you just fastened off (leaving 7(8, 8, 9, 9) sts unworked). Ch 2 (does not count as first st, here and throughout).

Row 1: Dc in same st as joining and IEN 10 (10, 12, 12, 14). Turn. (11, 11, 13, 13, 15 sts)

Size (6mos, 12mos, 18mos) only:

Row 1.5: Ch 2, dc in each st to end. Turn (13, 13, 15 sts)

All sizes:

Row 2: Ch 2, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc IEN 7 (7, 9, 9, 11) dc, dc decrease over last 2 dc. Turn (9, 9, 11, 11, 13 sts)

Row 3: repeat Row 1.5 (9, 9, 11, 11, 13 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc IEN 5 (5, 7, 7, 9) dc, dc decrease over last 2 dc. Turn (7, 7, 9, 9, 11 sts)

Size (12mos, 18mos) only:

Row 4.5: repeat row 1.5 (9, 11 sts)

All sizes:

Row 5: Ch 2, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc IEN 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) dc, dc decrease over last 2 dc. Size NB, 3mos, and 6mos, fasten off. Size 12mos and 18mos, turn (5, 5, 7, 7, 9 sts)

Size (12mos, 18mos) only:

Row 5.5: Ch 2, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc IEN (3, 5) dc, dc decrease over last 2 dc. Fasten off. (5, 7 sts)

LEFT EAR FLAP

Work in rows.

Join MC with sl st to 18^th (19^th, 21^st, 22^nd, 24^th) st to the right of where you fastened off on the last round of the hat (leaving 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts unworked from left ear flap). Ch 2 (does not count as first st, here and throughout).

Rows 1-5(5, 5, 5.5, 5.5): Follow directions as for RIGHT EAR FLAP; do not fasten off.

Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), 2 sc in first dc, 1 sc IEN 3(3, 5, 5, 7) dc, 2 sc in last dc, sc evenly down side of ear flap, sc decrease in bottom of ear flap and in first unworked dc of back hat, sc in each dc around back to st before next ear flap, sc decrease in last dc of back hat and bottom of ear flap, sc evenly up side of ear flap, 2 sc in first dc, 1 sc IEN 3(3, 5, 5, 7) dc, 2 sc in last dc, sc evenly down the other side, sc decrease in bottom of ear flap and first unworked dc of front hat, sc in each dc around front to st before next ear flap, sc decrease in last dc of front hat and bottom of ear flap, sc evenly up side of ear flap; join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

EDGING

With RS facing and 2^nd color, join with sl st to middle of back of hat (where you fastened off on the last round of HAT). Ch 1 (does not count as first st).

Row 1: sc in each sc across to sc decrease. Sc decrease over sc decrease and next sc of ear flap. 1 sc in each sc around to last sc of ear flap. Sc decrease over last sc and sc decrease. 1 sc in each sc around to next sc decrease. Sc decrease over sc decrease and next sc of ear flap. 1 sc in each sc around to last sc of ear flap. Sc decrease over last sc and sc decrease. 1 sc in each sc around to first, join with sl st, fasten off.

BRAIDS

Cut 12 pieces of MC or 2^nd color each 14 inches long. Cut 2 pieces 4 inches long. Separate into two halves and 2 short pieces. Slide hook through middle st of 5, 5, 7, 7, 9 sts along top of ear flap. Pull 6 pieces through halfway. Divide pieces up into 3 groups of 2, being careful to take one piece from each side of st, and braid loosely. Tie one of the short pieces around bottom of braid at desired length tightly and double knot. Trim ends to desired length. Continue with the same instructions for the other braid.

FLOWER APPLIQUE

Work in rounds; do not turn.

With 2^nd or 3^rd color, make an adjustable ring. Ch 1 (does not count as first st, here and throughout).

Round 1: 6 sc in ring, pull tight; join to first sc with sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; join to first sc with sl st. Change colors.

Round 3: Ch 1, *sl st in first sc, ch 1, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1- repeat from * around; join to first sl st with sl st. Fasten off.

Sew applique onto hat with whip stitch. If desired, sew outline with back stitch around flower.

POM-POM

Cut 21 pieces of yarn each 5 inches long. Using hook, pull 20 pieces halfway through around one of the dc from the first round of HAT. Using the last piece, tie a tight double knot around all the pieces. Trim to desired length.

ENDING DETAILS

Work in all ends. ENJOY!

Little h's Birthday Dress

I cannot believe my darling Little h is going to be one year old next month. Craziness. This is the birthday dress I made for her. It was definitely a labor of love, this one. I got the idea from this original Chinese Baby Dress.. I made so many modifications and didn't follow the pattern hardly at all, though, that it's really not even the same dress. The only part that I actually followed was the lace pattern on the skirt. The rest... Well... Let's just say it was a lot of working it, pulling it out, and re-working it. A. Lot. But, all in all, I'm pretty pleased with the dress. As much as it was a pain to work with the tiny thread, I like the resulting lacy fabric.

I just took these pictures this morning when I finished it, but I will come back and add more after The Big Day next month. I have a better onesie and tights to go with it :-)

So... Here it is!

Swishy skirt!

I will for sure be using this lace design in other projects... Isn't it cool?

Baby Shoes

I've been working a lot of baby shoes lately with scrap yarn- I love that they don't take much! They're also pretty quick and easy, which is also good. Below are some of the most recent additions.

First, the V-Straps from my first tutorial.

Next, some cutie pie MJs that I made for an old friend's daughter, A.

Some Ballerina Flats...

And my favorites (I think)... Some little flower Slip-Ons.

I think these would work for boys too- just in different colors and maybe a dinosaur applique? I'll have to work on that.

You'll have to excuse the pajamas...

Joni Jumper!

I just bought the book, "Baby Blueprint Crochet" by Robyn Chachula and it is AWESOME. I love it, love it, love it and can't wait to try out all the patterns. Below is the first- It's called Joni Jumper. I made a few small mods, but mostly followed Robyn's original pattern. I will for sure be making more in different colors and the next size up. I love that it's a dress now, but can also be worn as a tunic over a long sleeved shirt and pants. Obviously, this jumper is not for sale since it's not my own pattern. But... If you've got a little girlie like me... Maybe you'll be getting one as a gift :-)

You can also find this jumper in my Ravelry projects.

And, as always, much credit to my beautiful model, Little h.

 

Free pattern! Little h Shrug Sweater in Snapdragon

By request, here's another free pattern. Same as before- go ahead and do what you wish with your finished product, but please give credit in person or online. You can link directly to this blog at littlehcustomdesigns.blogspot.com. Thanks and happy hooking!

LITTLE H SHRUG SWEATER

Body of Shrug: Snapdragon Stitch: Multiple of 8 + 5
Size G hook
Thin baby yarn is needed- one color.
Yarn needle
Measuring tape

Gauge: 4 dc = 1inch long

Stitches used:
ch
hdc
dc

This pattern is for size 12 months. For 9 months, start with a chain of 45. For 18 mos, start with a ch of 66. If you would like to make an adult size or any other size, see the end notes.



SHRUG

With main color, chain 53.
R1: Dc in 5th chain from hook. *skip next 3 chs, 5 dc in next stitch (Shell stitch made), skip next 3 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch (V-Stitch made), repeat from * across. This is the right side.
R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn. 2 dc in first ch-1 space (So you're making one half of a Shell Stitch on the edges), skip next 3 dc, work V-Stitich in next dc (it will be the middle dc of the 5 in the shell), *5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, work V-Stitch in next dc; repeat from * across, then 3 dc in last space.
R3: Ch 4 (counts as first dc plus one ch), turn. Dc in same stitch, *5 dc in next ch-1 space, skip next 3, work V-Stitch in next dc, repeat from * across.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 12 inches in length. End with a number 3 row (or one that begins with a V-Stitch- this will make border easier.) If you would like a shorter shrug, only go until piece measures 10 inches; longer, 14 inches. Now you should have a square or rectangular piece of fabric.

ARM HOLES

Fold the top down to the bottom so that the first and last rows are together. With yarn needle, sew the side of the rectangle from the bottom towards the fold for one inch. Repeat on opposite side.

BORDER

You will be working in rounds. You need to start on the right end of what was your first row. Start with Right Side facing you- your work will be upside down. Join with sl st to ch-3 space to the left of where you have just sewn the arm hole. Ch 2, 3 hdc in same space, *1 hdc in same space as next shell stitch, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, repeat from * to next sewn arm hole. After seam, work 1 hdc in top of each stitch and in each ch around to beginning ch. Join with sl st to first hdc, ch 3, do not turn.
R2: work 4 dc in same st as joining (shell stitch made), skip next 3 hdc, *5 dc in next hdc, skip next 3 hdc, repeat around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch. You may need to fudge how many hdc you skip the last few times to have it meet up. Finish off.

END NOTES

Weave in all ends.
To make shrug for any size other than the three listed at the beginning, measure from tip of shoulder to tip of shoulder; add 2 inches. Check your stitches- make sure that you know how many make one inch of double crochets. Then, do the math so you know how many you need to make your shoulder measurement. For instance: If your shoulder measures 14 inches, then you add 2, you have 16. If 4 dcs equal one inch, then you multiply 4 by 16 to get 64. But 64 is not a multiple of 8 + 5, so you need to do a little more math to figure it out. The closest multiple is 61. So you start with 61 chains and work the pattern from there. Any questions, feel free to contact me at littlehcustomdesigns@gmail.com. Enjoy and send pics of completed projects!

Baby/Toddler V-Strap Shoes- The tutorial!

This is my first ever public tutorial. Please give it a try and send me some feedback!!! Email me at littlehcustomdesigns@gmail.com with questions or feedback. Do what you wish with your creations- you may sell them, but please give credit in person or online. Link to this blog- littlehcustomdesigns.blogspot.com. Thanks and enjoy!

The finished pair.

Cuuuuuuute!

They fit!

BABY/TODDLER V-STRAP SHOES

H Hook

Vanna's Choice Yarn- Color A (Co. A)

Vanna's Choise Yarn- Color B (Co. B)

2 Buttons (Size not specified- Can make button hole to fit)

Yarn Needle

Stitches Used:

ch

sl st

sc

sc decrease

hdc

dc decrease

I've seen a few versions of this type of shoe, but I couldn't find a free pattern. I wasn't going to pay for it- and neither should you! This is what I came up with. Hope you like them!

I made these for my 10 month old. She wears a size 4 toddler shoe (big for her age), so this pattern is written to that size. To make different sizes, see the end notes. If you have any questions along the way, let me know! And if you do make these, PLEASE send me pics! I'd love to see. Contact me at littlehcustomdesigns@gmail.com

SHOE: Worked in one piece (except the strap) and worked from sole up. JOIN always means join with sl st to beginning st of that round, ch 1. Ch 1 does not count as a st. First st of each round is done in same st as joining. Do not turn unless specified. IEN: means “in each of next.”

SOLE

With Co. A, ch 11 tightly.

R1: 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. 1 sc IEN 8 chs. 6 sc in last ch. Now, turn and work around the opposite side of original ch (see picture). 1 sc IEN 8 chs; join. (26 sts)

18 sts completed- turning around to work opposite side of ch.

R2: 2 sc IEN 4 sc. 1 sc IEN 8 sc, 2 sc IEN 6 sc, 1 sc IEN 8 sc; join. (36 sts)

R3: *2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc*, repeat a total of 4 times, 1 sc IEN 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc*, repeat a total of 2 times *2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc*, repeat a total of 2 times, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc*, repeat a total of 2 times, 1 sc IEN 8 sc; join. (46 sts)

R4: *2 sc in first sc, 1 sc IEN 2 sc*, repeat total of 4 times, 1 sc IEN 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc IEN 2 sc*, repeat total of 2 times, *2 hdc in next, 1 hdc IEN 2*, repeat total of 2 times, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc IEN 2 sc*, repeat total of 2 times,1 sc IEN 8 sc; join. (56 sts)

R5: 1 sc in each st around; join and CH 2 with Co. B (56 sts)

Finished sole with Co. B joined in.

SHOE

R6: 1 hdc in each st around IN BACK LOOPS ONLY; join and turn. (56 sts)

R7: 1 sc in each st around; join and turn. (56 sts)

R8: 1 sc IEN 27 sc, dc decrease 10 times/ in next 20 scs, 1 sc IEN 11 sc; join and turn. (46 sts)

R9: 1 sc in each st around; join and turn. (46 sts)

R10: *1 sc IEN 2 sc, sc decrease*, repeat a total of 4 times, sc IEN 11 sc, sc decrease, 1 sc IEN 6 sc, sc decrease, 1 sc IEN 9 sc; join and fasten off. (40 sts)

Finished shoe.

STRAP

First, you will need to figure out how large a button hole you need. Ch about 15 and then wrap this ch around the middle of your button (see picture). Count how many chs it takes, then subtract one. For me, it took 7 chs, so I subtracted one to get 6. This is the number you will add into [this space] below.

Measuring the button.

Join Co. B with sl st to top of the first (or second for right shoe) sc decrease you made on the toe of the last row of the shoe. Ch 20, then [6] more for a ch of 20 + [your number] total. Being careful not to wind the ch, sl st in 20^th ch from joining and in each ch across. You will end up with 20 sl sts with a circle of chs at the top (see picture). Sl st in the sc to the left of joining and fasten off.

The whole strap and button hole- it's a little oddly shaped from being yanked and chewed. But it still works!

Counting clockwise (or counter-clockwise for right shoe) around the toe, go 12 sts up the side from the st where you joined in your strap. Pull strap through the top of the next (or 13^th) st from inside to outside.

Strap placement- left shoe.

BUTTON

Sew on button so that the top of it is just below the top of your shoe. It should be sewn on 10 sts to the right (or counter-clockwise) from where you joined your strap. Mine took up the 11^th and 12^th sts. For right shoe, just reverse directions.

\Side view of button- left shoe.

END NOTES:

Sew in all ends. To make a slightly bigger or smaller size, use a bigger or smaller hook. To make size 3-12 months, start with a ch of 9 instead of 11, skip R4 of the sole, skip R7 of the shoe, and subtract 2 sts from both of the sides of the shoe on Rows 8, 9, and 10. To make size 3-4T (size 5 or 6 shoe), start with a ch of 13, continue in increasing pattern for one more row after R4, do Rows 7 and 9 twice each, and add 2 sts to both sides of the shoe on Rows 8, 9, and 10. You will have to adjust the strap placement accordingly. Contact me at littlehcustomdesigns@gmail.com with any questions!