Another Pullover...

Ok. We all know my love of the book, Baby Blueprint Crochet, by Robyn Chachula. This is the third Callum Pullover I've made out of that book, and my favorite. You can see my first one here. The second one is a surprise... So it'll have to wait to go up here :-)

Anyway. I worked out some swatches and fixed my gauge with this one so it didn't turn out so darned small! My gauge was still a little smaller than what it called for in the book, but it worked out anyway. I don't know if I'm just a super tight crocheter or if the size hook called for in the book is incorrect. I haven't had this problem with other Chachula patterns, so I want to think that it's a mistake. Anywho. Figured it out.

And here it is... The Purple Pullover!

I like my square buttons!

Hoot Hoot!

'Bout time I jumped aboard the Owl Train. I've been admiring owl hats, sweaters, blankets... You name it for months, but never tried anything out. Thanks to my friend, K, and her gorgeous little man, W, we now have the Little h Sleepy Owl Hat. Matching mittens are in the works :-)

Super Wy... Isn't he ADORABLE??? Size 6 months.

And a girlie sleepy owl!

This one is a child size small (2-4T)

Ok. So, Little h was NOT about wearing this hat at this time.

This is the progression of me trying to get a decent picture.

Needless to say, I didn't get one that shows off either the hat or the girlie.

This one is my fave- "Mumma's so mean!"

One more... The Night Owl!

This one is for my Little h...

Milk-Drunk.

Mittens are in the works, too!

Little h Angel Sweater

I love the look of this classic sweater and the pattern is so versatile. Here's my take on this adorable sweater. Enjoy!

I've been holding onto these buttons for years, waiting for the right project to use them on!

Don't mind the bump on the noggin... Had a fight with the doorway and lost :-(

Edging

Pretty!

This was my first Angel Sweater

I kept it very short because she was learning to crawl and I didn't want it to get in her way.

LITTLE h ANGEL SWEATER PATTERN

INFO:

This sweater is easily customizable for any size and even for different yarn weights and hook sizes. And- no sewing except for buttons! You can also decide to have long or short sleeves and how many buttons you want. To change the size, simply replace my measurements with your own. The first measurement is ½ the chest size (size 18 months is a chest size of 20”, so divide that by 2 to get 10”). The second is from shoulder to waist. To change to a larger hook and worsted weight or bulky yarn, adjust your starting ch. It needs to be a multiple of 8 (this makes up one point in the first row of the chevron pattern) plus 5 (this is the extra 1 dc on each side and the ch 3 that counts as your first dc). Decide how many points you will need (say, 4 for the body and 2 for each of the sleeves for a total of 8 points) and then multiply that by 8 (so, 56), then add 5 (so, 61 total). You should have an even number of points. If you want buttons all the way down the front, just evenly space more button holes on R2 of EDGING. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

STS USED:

ch

sl st

sc

sc decrease

dc

dc decrease
IEN: means "In Each of Next" referring to a number of sts

MATERIALS:

Sport #3 light weight yarn, about 5 oz (Shown in photos: Pattons Beehive Baby Sport)

F/5 Hook

Yarn needle

1-6 Buttons

SWEATER, SIZE 18 MONTHS

Fits chest size 20-22”.

Ch 117

YOLK:

R1: (RS) dc decrease over 4^th and 5^th chs from hook, *1 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, dc decrease over next 2 chs, dc decrease over next 2 chs, repeat from * to last 3 chs- dc decrease over next 2 chs, 1 dc in last ch. Turn

R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), skip one dc, *1 dc IEN 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space, 1 dc IEN 3 dc, skip next 2 dc, repeat from * around to last 2 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in top of 3 ch/turning ch. Turn.

R3: Ch 3, skip one dc, *1 dc IEN 4 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space, 1 dc IEN 4 dc, skip next 2 dc, repeat from * around to last 2 dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in top of 3 ch/turning ch.

Continue in this pattern, adding 1 dc to each side of the points in chevron pattern until your piece measures 10'' over 4 points (or over however many points you have for your BACK). To do this, lay piece flat, start measuring from the tip of one point straight across work to tip of 4^th point. Continue in increasing pattern for one more row. For me, this was my 12^th row, or 13 dcs on each side of chevron. Do not fasten off. Here, you want to lay work flat again to see where you will be going next. It should look like a big circle with 14 points on the outside. From where the start of your rows is, the first 2 points are LEFT FRONT, the next 3 are LEFT SLEEVE, the next 4 are BACK, the next 3 are RIGHT SLEEVE, the last 2 are RIGHT FRONT. Use markers if you'd like.

BODY:

R1: Continue in increasing pattern over first 2 points (LEFT FRONT), but replace last dc with a dc decrease over last dc and the first dc you would normally skip. Fold work so that you will skip over 3 points.(LEFT SLEEVE). Dc decrease over the second dc you would normally skip and the next dc on the side of this 4^th point. Continue in increasing pattern over next 4 points (BACK). Fold work again so that you will skip over 3 points (RIGHT SLEEVE). Dc decrease over the second dc you would normally skip and the next dc on the side of this 4^th point. Continue in increasing pattern over the last 2 points (RIGHT FRONT) to end.

R2: (For larger hook sizes, skip this row.) Continue in increasing pattern.

R3: Continue in increasing pattern BUT replace (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each ch 2 space with (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc). This will stop the increasing, but will continue in a chevron pattern.

R4: Continue in this chevron pattern until your piece measures 10” from neckline to tip of any BODY point. End with a WS row.

Last Row: Continue in same pattern, but replace (1dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in each ch 1 space with (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc). This will help make the points pointier. Do not fasten off.

EDGING:

R1: Turn work sideways, with RS facing. You will be working up one side of the front, along the ends of rows just completed. Work dc evenly up this side, with 2 dc for each row. When you get to the top, work 3 dc in the opposite side of foundation ch and the first dc/ch 3 of neckline to create corner. Then continue around neck as follows: 1 dc IEN 3 dc, dc decrease over next 2 dc (this will be the opposite side of where you increased to form the point on R1 of YOLK), *1 dc IEN 6 dc, dc decrease over next 2 dc, repeat around neck to last 4 dc, 1 dc IEN 3 dc, 3 dc in last dc (second corner). Work evenly down side of other front, with 2 dc in each row. (For larger hook sizes, create button holes on this side by: ch 1, skip 1 dc, dc in next 5, ch 1, skip 1 dc, dc in each dc to end.) Turn.

R2: (For larger hook sizes, skip this row.) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in each dc up to corner, 1 dc in first st of corner, 3 dc in middle dc of corner, then work neck as follows: 1 dc IEN 3 dc, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc decrease over same st and next dc (so you will be decreasing 3 dc from R1 to 2 dc), *1 dc IEN 4 dc, dc decrease over next 2 dc, dc decrease over same st and next dc, repeat around to last 2 st before corner, 1 dc IEN 3 dc, 3 dc in middle st of corner, 1 dc in last st of corner, then work down front as follows: ch 1, skip one dc (first buttonhole made), 1 dc IEN 8 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc (second buttonhole made), dc in each dc to end of row. Turn.

R3: Ch 1 (does not count as first st), 1 sc in each dc and ch 1 space to corner. 3 sc in middle st of corner, then work neck as follows: *1 sc IEN 4 dc, sc decrease over next 2 dc decreases, 1 sc IEN 4 dc, repeat around to corner, 3 sc in middle st of corner, 1 sc in each dc down side of front. Fasten off.

SLEEVES

If you want short sleeves, just continue on to ENDING DETAILS. If you want long sleeves, continue here.

Join yarn with sl st to underarm of sleeve. Ch 3, continue in chevron pattern without the decrease like you did in R3 of BODY (you will need to join your first and last dc in the underarm, but then turn your work and ch 3 like normal) until your sleeve measures 9” from neckline to bottom of any point.

Last row: Continue in pattern, but replace (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in each ch 1 space with (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc). Fasten off.

ENDING DETAILS

Sew on buttons to match up with buttonholes made. Weave in all ends.